Tofu (豆腐) is cheap, widely available, nutritious and most importantly versatile. Many theories have been formed with regards to when and by whom the first tofu was formed.
Even though tofu has made its appearance in almost all Asian cuisines but it is certain that its origins lie in China. And like most ancient discoveries, its creation was most likely accidental when sea salt was added to soymilk – curdling it where it coagulated to form tofu. Its first written record was around 950AD in T’ao Ku’s Ch’ing I Lu.
Asians have found different ways of preparing tofu that it can be eaten almost any time of the day.
In the mornings the Chinese have commonly what is known as douhua. This sweetened silken soft tofu has a texture similar to a custard pudding. It is served with plain sugar or almond flavoured syrup. Usually found sold alongside soy milk, the drink is eaten with fried fritters called you tiao or you cha gwai.
In Japan, a cold appetiser, called hiyayakko tofu cleanses the palate before a meal and is served with a light soy sauce is topped with minced scallions, shaved bonito flakes, grated radish and ginger.
Buddhist monks from Mount Koya in Osaka have been attributed to Koyatofu, a dehydrated variant freeze-dried by cold mountain air. It has to be reconstituted with warm water before using. Freezing the tofu causes the water molecules in the tofu to harden, forming tiny air pockets, creating a springy spongy texture which also allows it to absorb liquids, making it perfect for casseroles or dishes with sauces.
A similar principle is used now in many kitchens to texturise tofu, to make it “meatier”, for use as a chicken substitute in recipes. Store-bought vacuum-packed tofu is deliberately frozen solid in freezer compartments. When thawed the tofu is pressed and the whey is discarded.
Firm tofu is cubed and deep-fried to preserve its structural integrity where it is then tossed into sauce laden stir-fries. In Indonesia and Malaysia, tofu is served in salad-like dishes called Tauhu Telur and Tauhu Goreng respectively, paired with thin stringy slivers of cucumber, carrot and bean sprouts. In the former, the firm tofu is coated with egg and deep-fried after which it is liberally served with a spicy peanut dressing. In the latter, firm tofu is flavoured with salt, deep-fried whole, next oil-drained and cubed, where is it then liberally doused with a cooked peanut/satay sauce.
Soft tofu can also be deep fried to form tofu puffs called toupao which can be stuffed with a myriad of cooked ingredients and eaten like a wrap.
Due to the prevalence of vegetarianism and veganism in recent years, Tofu has also made its appearance in western cuisines. Tofu slabs are first marinated. They can be grilled to substitute beef patties in tofu-based burgers or cubed for kebabs.
Once hailed as a superfood, tofu is now reeked with controversy. In recent years, after the waves of scientific reports purporting the benefits of soy ebbed, voices of dissent have started to flood in.
Toxins like protease inhibitors (which promote the growth of pancreatic cancer-causing agents), phytates (which leech the body of essential minerals) and Nitrosamines (founded in isolated soy protein (ISP) a by-product of processing soy) are being flagged and waved before the FDA – as communities, against soy, rise.
And this, I say on behalf of the humble tofu, totally stinks!
This brings me to the end of my first post on the very brief discourse on tofu. Stinky fermented tofu, one of the most unique, acquired-tasting tofu dish – together with other fermented soy products, like miso, tempeh and natto – have been given the green light and are relatively free of blame.
So dear readers, as a precaution please do start hoarding breath mints and nose plugs, while tofu makes its continued evolution.
Image disclaimer: I’ve been trying to find out the source of the plush tofu but to no avail. If it belongs to you, let me know, I will give you due credit. Thanks!
Anthropology of Food 